The Tease of Taiwan Teas

Yes, Taiwan has terrific temples and one of the world´s tallest buildings, Taipei 101, but the "T"s that are most tantalizing for taste are the ones you sip. Given the strong influences of ancient China and Japan on Taiwan, it´s not surprising that tea would be both a habit and an art form. Given Taiwan´s own modern creativity, it´s also not unexpected that the country would offer unique innovations.

Trendy "Bubble Tea" originated in Taiwan, but has since spread to cities around the world. Seeking the perfect combination of various flavored gelatinous tapioca spheres with the "right" tea can be a quest in itself. Being a virgin to the concept, I asked Winnie to pick one for me. My new Taiwanese friend, who works for the Tourist Board, selected a combo of lavender tapioca balls in a black tea with milk.

When I first sipped the cold drink through a wide straw, it startled me. The chewy pellets struck the roof of my mouth unexpectedly, and it all struck me as funny. I started to laugh in a way that led to a full stomach-massage and milk-snorting. When I finally got my cascading giggles under control, I emptied the paper cup of Bubble Tea, and I wanted more.

That silly, sensual sipping fest was a far cry from the quietly elegant antique teapots from different dynasties that I enjoyed as a small part of the magnificent National Palace Museum in Taipei. Seeing the evolution of glazes and shapes of teapots through the centuries steeped me with some tea history

The straw-sipping Bubble Tea was also far from the tranquil, mannered tea ceremony I enjoyed at the lovely Lulu Hotel, sitting near floating lotus in a koi pond and a languid infinity pool that led to a soothing view of the famous Sun Moon Lake reflecting the undulations of mountains.

The take-out Bubble Tea giggles-smack-in-the-middle-of-skyscraper-Taipei was also far from the meditatively quiet Skyline Tea shop perched over a deep valley with sweeping views of the East China Sea. The shop offered artful tea merchandise, and small pots sitting on small flames with wisps of smoke whispering skyward. The air smelled of peace on the outside patio, as a rainbow arced the sky.

Then the rains returned, and fortified with the fragrances of warm teas, I returned to Jiufen´s wonderfully colorful, umbrella-clad throngs pulsing up and down steep, narrow, curving, cobblestoned streets flanked by welcoming shops.

Another day, out where tea is grown in the agricultural regions of the island, I dined at Pu Li, where the natural organic food rises to high levels of taste as well as aesthetics. The pink lotus flower floating in the seaweed soup made the dish almost too beautiful to try and was only one offering of dozens that pleased both stomach and eyes.

The fantastic chef at Pu Li recommended only one tea to complement our top meal – a premium black tea: TTS #18. It´s a blend bred of Taiwan´s Camellia and Myanmar large-leafed black teas.

Winnie tells me that the Taiwanese Tea Experiment Station (TTES) has been blending and breeding hybrids since 1969. "Traditional" means it takes 28 years for a "new" hybrid, with modern methods taking no less than 15 years. So far the TTES has named/numbered 20 kinds of experimental teas. TTES #18, or Ruby, is considered the highest quality. It grows on Mt. Maolan near Sun Moon Lake, with an average humidity of 85 percent.

"Ruby" not only added to my stay; it was the right delight to take home. I brought back many memories of my wonderful week in Taiwan. A tai chi master gave me a little lesson in front of the Confucius Temple. I visited three generations of lantern makers who hand painted the thin papers of folk lanterns at the Wu Dun-hou Lantern Shop on the old streets of Lugang. I walked through a gold mine, bicycled through throngs, and nodded to Temple chants.

I also brought home many photos of the kind people and beautiful architecture and scenery. I carried home a "chop" with my name on it from new friends, and gifts for old friends at home from the diverse night markets and the wonderful museums shops.

But only one thing I carried home let me share a true "taste of Taiwan" with those I love: TTES # 18. And bringing home "the best" was an appropriate souvenir of the country and trip.

My husband and I have carefully meted out the tea blend that transforms to pleasure, and we are almost out. In an email, Winnie tells me that yes, the tea is available online, but she warns that there is no guarantee that it will be the real thing. The Taiwanese way is to go to the teashop yourself.

Taiwan is a long way to go for a shopping trip, but a worthwhile journey. Fortunately I have a list of hot springs, museums, and temples that I haven´t visited yet, and a famous gorge I haven´t seen, and people I would love to visit again.

And for a laugh or two, I might as well try to master the Bubble Tea with the people who invented it.

Lisa Sonne

Special Thanks for information and memories to Winnie Wu and the Taiwanese Tourist board http://eng.taiwan.net.tw/

HOW TO GET THERE:

The flight is long, but if you can swing Business Class on China Airlines, the good memories of the trip begin when you board and are treated like royalty. The service is even called "Dynasty." A window seat provided extra storage next to me and more room for long legs and comfortable sleeping positions.

CHINA AIRLINES http://www.china-airlines.com/en/index.htm

HOTELS:

The Grand Hyatt in Taipei was grand in more than name – the staff, services, comforts, and views of the Taipei 101 made it hard to leave. It was a dreamy home base to come back to after forays to other parts of the island. http://taipei.grand.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/index.jsp

The Fleur de Chine on Sun Moon Lake had Japanese baths in the rooms, balconies above the lake and a fun water-theme park with mineral baths in the hotel. http://www.fleurdechinehotel.com/

The Tahyi Landis adds to the enchantment of Tainan. http://www.tayihlandis.com.tw/tayih_ok/index.htm

It was great to enjoy views of the Love River and then walk out the door of the Ambassador Hotel in Kaohsiung, a bustling exciting port city bigger than Seattle and San Francisco. http://www.ambassadorhotel.com.tw/

FOOD

Dining at the delectable Silk Palace adds to your experience of the National Palace Museum. www.silkspalace.com.tw)

Kunohe in Jiufen offers commanding views of the East China Sea, and culinary delights. Both the town and restaurant are worth visiting.

Ding Tai Fong restaurant in Taipei, I didn´t know that dumplings could be so savory and sublime until I ate here and felt like I was floating. There are reasons this place gets awards and global appreciation. http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide-2767851-din_tai_feng_taipei-i

Pu Li- uniquely healthy and heavenly food. If you have a larger party, you can have a quiet private room, but the people watching is great in the main area- full of Taiwanese not tourists. http://www.puli-eating.com.tw/

Full House near Sun Moon Lake is designed artistically to appeal to all the senses. Wonderful imagination with fruits especially, http://www.fhsml.idv.tw/

Along the coast for a road trip to Yehliu GeoPark, the Provence Café offers seafood and Italian food. Go for the experience and setting, not for a peak culinary time.

In Tainan, check out: I Chous: http://www.chous.com.tw/

And how could you resist a place called Sit Fun? http://www.sit-fun.com.tw/

Near the top of Taipei 101, Shinyeh offers great views while dining elegantly (http://www.shinyeh.com.tw/index.htm) and for street level local Taipei, lift your chopsticks at Chili House for a good time

Tu Hsiao Yueh is also popular with history going back to 1895 and charming staff www.iddi.com.tw

ACTIVITIES

National Palace Museum in Tapei with great Chinese treasures: www.npm.gov.tw)

Taipei 101 observatory deck and vertical shopping malls are a big draw for tourists and locals and shopping mall (http://www.taipei-101.com.tw/en/DB/index.asp

Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village (www.nine.com.tw)

People from indigenous cultures work there and entertain. There are also amusement park rides.

Yehliu Geopark for rock sculptures seaside (http://tirugondar.wordpress.com/2008/08/03/yehliu-and-the-yehliu-geopark/)

Walk around Danshui Old Street (http://www.tshs.tpc.gov.tw/fore/taindex_en.asp

At Sun Moon Lake, rent giant bikes: www.giant-bicycles.com

And take a boat ride to serene Lulu Island

Enjoy the Light House and Former British Consulate in Kaohsiung for spectacular water and port views, and relax on a boat ride on the LOVE River

More on www.WorldTouristBureau.com

You could plan entire trips just around the remarkable temples and pagodas and palaces of Taiwan or a soothing health retreats to a myriad of Taiwan´s Hot Springs or you could collect teas. From Taipei 101 to temples, there are many ways Taiwan can "fit you to a T."